The first thing to check in the kitchen is the plumbing accessibility. Then look at plumbing condition. Take a look at the sink. Is it made of stainless steel, cast iron, molded plastic, or slate? Is it a double sink or a single one? Is it firmly fastened down to the countertop or is it just resting there by gravity? What is the condition of the surface? Is there any pitting, scratching, or corrosion?

Is there a disposal? Look for the switch controlling the disposal. Is it one of the wall switches over the countertop or is it under the sink? If you cannot find a switch, check to see if the drain cover functions as a switch. Make sure there is nothing like a spoon or other utensil jammed in the disposal before you turn it on. Let it run for less than a second. By the way, a garbage disposal should not be used heavily on a private septic system.

Operate the kitchen faucet. Does it have an aerator? Is flow strong or weak? Make sure the hot is toward the left and the cold toward the right. Is there any leakage coming from the faucet? Does the sprayer attachment work or is it plugged, broken, or missing? While the water is on, take a look under the sink for leakage from the hot and cold pipes, the drain pipe and trap, and the sprayer hose.

Check the floor around the refrigerator. Is there any standing water? How about stains, dampness, or mildew staining? It is not unusual for some refrigerators to leak water occasionally. The water can come from defrosting systems or from loose connections to ice makers.

See how much of a gap there is for the condenser coils on the back of the refrigerator. Generally, a refrigerator will have better energy efficiency with plenty of air circulation around the coils. I have seen a lot of refrigerators installed into tight alcoves with little clearance behind.